I lastly did it. After years of saving pictures and telling myself “one day,” I landed in Europe’s most well-known walled metropolis… effectively, nearly.
On method, the wind (locals name it the bura) kicked up, the pilot waved off the touchdown, and we had been despatched all the way in which again to Vienna. Cue an surprising in a single day in Warsaw, a misplaced carry‑on with all my garments, and the type of journey chaos that may usually derail a visit.
But right here’s the factor: one drive previous these sea partitions, with the stone glowing and the water turning each shade of blue, and I stopped caring about my stuff. I was simply giddy to be there.
That first exhale occurred the second I walked into Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik.
It’s carved into the cliff with a glass elevator and large, cinematic bay views, even from my first‑ground room. The staff was so form; they actually handed me a map marked with close by outlets so I might substitute a number of necessities.
The very very first thing I did when I acquired to my room was stroll straight to the balcony. Anytime I’m at a property with a view it’s the very first thing I need to see, and Hotel Bellevue doesn’t disappoint!
The views overlooking the lodge’s very personal seashore cove are gorgeous and I spent numerous time on my balcony the remainder of the journey.
After soaking within the view, I became the one outfit I had, walked down towards the harbor, and let the town do its factor.
The climate was excellent, the core is walkable, and it’s a straightforward place to wander, even when, huge image, Dubrovnik is usually a little extra automobile‑dependent than some European capitals.
Over a packed few days I ate, sailed, cooked, and wandered my method via the area, and 5 issues specifically blew me away: the luxurious, the meals, the wine, the individuals, and the wonder.
Here’s precisely the way it unfolded, and how you can copy one of the best components on your personal journey.
1) THE LUXURY — A Seamless Base With Serious Views
If you need a no‑stress Dubrovnik, base your self with Adriatic Luxury Hotels (ALH) and let the community do the heavy lifting.
I stayed at Hotel Bellevue, which instantly turned my comfortable place. Imagine waking up, stepping onto your balcony, and getting an ocean‑panorama slap of “I’m actually here.”
The rooms are fashionable and calm, the spa is ideal for a wet afternoon reset, and people glass elevators… you float down the cliff like a film scene.
What shocked me most was how effectively a single‑base technique works right here.
From Bellevue, Old Town is a fast journey or a barely longer however very doable stroll; island day journeys are easy to arrange; wine nation is a straightforward half‑day; and the lodge’s personal Vapor restaurant is a real tremendous‑eating possibility when the climate turns otherwise you simply need to maintain it shut.
One night time we deliberate to eat in Old Town, however the skies opened and we pivoted to Vapor. Zero regrets! The meals and repair had been as polished as any “destination restaurant.”
2) THE FOOD — From Festival Menus To Farmhouse Fire
This journey was initially constructed round a culinary theme, and Dubrovnik over‑delivered.
I arrived simply in time for Taste the Mediterranean at Hotel Excelsior (one other ALH property, and simply on my checklist for a future keep). Night Two introduced a collaboration between cooks Beatriz Gonzalez and Petar Obad, and it was a blast.
They had me on the seafood course: an octopus dish with blue potato cream and a vibrant pop of orange that simply sang of the Adriatic. (I imply simply have a look at the pic beneath, does it not make you hungry?)
And dessert? A cacao symphony layered with Mexican vanilla, cacao‑bean ice cream, and caramelized pecans… a kind of “don’t talk to me while I’m eating this” moments.
If you see the competition in your dates, guide it.
If not, don’t fear, Vapor’s seasonal tasting menu scratches the identical itch, and you’ll maintain evenings walkably easy.
On the country facet, I lastly tried peka, that sluggish‑cooked, underneath‑the‑coals Croatian basic.
We went to Konoba Dubrava on a wet day and ordered it forward (it’s essential to name prematurely as a result of it takes hours).
Think pot roast’s richer, smokier cousin. Meat and potatoes melting into one another in the absolute best method. Absolutely value planning for.
And then there’s the ocean‑to‑desk second that Dubrovnik does so effectively: oysters in Mali Ston Bay.
You boat out to floating platforms, find out how they’re farmed, after which slurp the freshest oysters with a crisp white wine proper there over the water.
It’s easy, it’s enjoyable, and people views again towards Mali Ston are postcard‑degree.
3) THE WINE — A Quiet Heavyweight You Don’t See Coming
I’ve sipped my method via components of France and didn’t count on Croatia to shock me like this. But the Pelješac peninsula completely did.
Plavac Mali reds with construction and solar; Dubrovacka Malvasija whites that pair fantastically with seafood; and small, passionate producers like Miloš Winery who pour with a narrative. If you’re already out in Ston/Mali Ston for oysters, cap the loop with a close-by tasting, it’s such a relaxed technique to finish the day.
I was a bit drained from the longer day and time change and nonetheless perked up for the pours, particularly a rosé that was unusually expressive and layered. Even drained, I was like, “Okay, that’s special!”
Back within the metropolis, ask your somm for native pairings at dinner. You’ll get a quick training and a deeper connection to what’s in your plate. And for a extremely particular expertise with a really educated sommelier, guide a wine tasting at Hotel Supetar.
4) THE PEOPLE — 10 Generations Of Welcome
Everywhere I went, individuals had been comfortable we had been there. It wasn’t performative; it was heat, direct, and unhurried in one of the best ways.
Nowhere confirmed that higher than Kameni Dvori in Konavle, the place we did a palms‑on Garden‑to‑Table cooking class.
We kneaded bread whereas it rained, toured their backyard for herbs and greens, collected eggs, after which cooked a multi‑course lunch with the household whereas they advised tales about their 500‑yr roots within the space. Ten generations. You can style that continuity.
It’s a 5‑hour expertise with small teams (2–10), transfers out there, and dietary‑pleasant choices in case you ask prematurely. If you need to really feel related to the place as a substitute of simply it, that is your ticket.
Bring a small thank‑you from dwelling—espresso or chocolate—as a result of by the top you’ll really feel such as you’re leaving buddies.
5) THE BEAUTY — Every Direction Is The Right One
I anticipated fairly. I didn’t count on it in all places.
The Old Town stone is immaculate and glows at nightfall. The islands are a watercolor of coves and church buildings.
The shoreline places on a present even from a automobile window.
And then there are surprises, just like the glass elevator at Bellevue gliding via the cliff, or the view the second you step onto your first‑ground balcony that appears like a penthouse trick.
We spent one excellent morning on a yacht cruising to the Elaphiti Islands.
First cease: Koločep for espresso proper on the water. You can hike to just a little hilltop if you need, however lingering on the café felt precisely proper.
Then Lopud, which is barely bigger however nonetheless small, with a photogenic church up the hill and a handful of tiny outlets.
In summer season, ask your skipper to cease at a cove for a swim; it was a contact too chilly for us, however locals had been nonetheless leaping in and swore the water was round 73°F.
Back on land, we made up for a missed tour by constructing our personal Old Town night.
Jesuit Stairs (you’ll acknowledge them in case you’re a Game of Thrones fan), then we slipped via a tiny opening within the sea wall to Buza Bar, actually hanging off the cliffs.
Cash solely, minimal house, a little bit of a bottleneck getting out and in—however completely value it for sundown beers and that feeling of sitting on the sting of the world.
On the way in which out, we grabbed a snack at Holy Burek, then referred to as it. Uber works effectively right here; most vehicles are licensed taxis, so don’t be shocked in case your journey exhibits up with a roof signal.
Another day we explored Cavtat, a serene, scenic counterpoint to Dubrovnik and my choose for a future keep.
We toured rooms at Hotel Supetar (an ALH property), walked the Coastal Promenade, and climbed to the hilltop cemetery for sweeping views.
Later, we returned to the lodge’s Garden Terrace & Bar to pattern appetizers and drinks for the Good Food Festival—blankets on the chairs, lights twinkling over the harbor. It was a kind of easy, excellent nights.
The Perfect Send‑Off
For our final night time, we booked Proto in Old Town—extensively thought of the town’s high fish restaurant—and it delivered. If you possibly can, reserve the upstairs patio. There’s one thing about waving goodbye to Croatia with seafood in entrance of you and lanterns flickering over the stone. We lingered longer than deliberate—at all times a very good signal—after which walked the lanes another time.
I got here to Dubrovnik anticipating fairly photos. I left with a full pocket book: a competition dinner I nonetheless take into consideration, a cooking class that felt like household, oyster boats in a glittering bay, a cliff‑facet lodge that turned a house base, and new locations to remain subsequent time (Cavtat, I see you).
Overall? Dubrovnik is unbelievable. I can’t wait to return. When a vacation spot nails luxurious, meals, wine, individuals, and wonder suddenly, it stops being a visit and begins feeling like a endlessly place.
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